1 pound pasta such as linguine, spaghetti or egg tagliatelle
Grated Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano
1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Bring a large pot of water to boil for pasta.
Heat olive oil, 3 turns of the pan, in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. Add pancetta or guanciale, brown 3-4 minutes, then add garlic and some black pepper, and stir 2 minutes more. Add wine and reduce heat to low. Whisk up egg yolks and season with salt and pepper.
Add pasta to salted boiling water and cook to al dente.
Add 1 full cup of starchy cooking water to egg yolks in a slow stream to temper them. Reserve an extra half-cup starchy water in case the pasta gets too tight when you toss it. Drain pasta and add to pancetta and garlic, remove from heat and toss with egg yolks and handfuls of grated cheeses, parsley, adjust salt and pepper to taste.